Running IP Cameras on a Power Over Co-ax (POC) DVR?

[R_M]

Hi all, I am newly registered on here, but have been looking at posts on here for a while.
I recently installed a DS-7208HUHI-K2-P POC DVR (8mp/8 chan), along with X2 black 2.8mm 5MP POC colourvu cameras (DS-2CE72HFT-E). Initially I was very impressed with the system. I very quickly however questioned if I’d made the right choice. I had spoken with various ‘Experts’ prior to my purchase and was very much under the impression this system would be a hybrid. Enabling both POC and IP cameras through the same DVR.
It quickly became apparent as the cold nights wore off and the moths came back out the system was picking up multiple false alarms, despite numerous trips up to the loft to play with the sensitivity, I was still having issues.
Shortly after this someone in my house spotted someone from the road eyeing up the house. The chap was no more than 20–25meters from the camera, but the image of his face was pretty poor for a 5mp camera. Checked all setting and have made some tweaks which have upped the quality somewhat.
My initial plan with system was to have a couple of self installed and setup cameras, using a friends account to order the items needed and build upon that. I set about looking at other cameras Hik sell, this is where my first found my unexpected problem. Hikvision must be one of the only companies who I’ve come across who make it near on impossible to find out what cameras they do, and in what case colour. The case colour is especially important as I only want black cameras, not grey or white. I was unable to find anywhere online with a definitive list of cameras available to order, including lens sizes and case colours. The Hik US Site was better, but still no lens sizes. I note in the specs for most cameras they make reference to camera within range with larger lenses. I had hoped to find some black POC colourvu’s, possibly a 3.6mm lens, my thinking being that may be clearer over a longer range. I am very much a hands on person and kept being deflected to people who want to supply and fit, I won’t pay someone £300+ a day to do something I am able to do myself, in addition the best way for me to learn about something is by fitting it.
I am now keen to utilise the Acusense cameras and note they’re all IP camera. This is where I found my second problem. I am now of the understanding, that while I can run IP cameras through my DVR, I wouldn’t be able to take full advantage of the smart feature, such as the acusense. Can anyone confirm this for me? I had planned to run a couple of POE routers and network them back to the DVR. I wanted to have Acusense covering the road, set for human, and cars over a certain line, and a selection of other cameras, including the micro turret and at least one PTZ.
My thinking now is I may need an NVR for my use case? If i do, which one can people recommend based up on the above? Many thanks in advance for an help and apologies for the first post being a rambling one.
Rup

 

[Phil]

Hi,
I believe that you can get analogue AccuSense cameras?
But, I may be wrong as we only deal with IP cameras.

For an Accusense IP camera we would recommend that you use a 7608-I NVR:

Hikvision DS-7608NI-I2-8P 8 Channel Network Video Recorder

The DS-7608NI-I2-8P is now End of Life. May we recommend the DS-7608NI-M2/8P as a direct replacement for this model. Key Features: - 8 Channel NVR - 8 POE Ports - H.265+H.265/H.264/H.264+/MPEG4 video formats - Up to 8 IP cameras can be connected - Supports live view, storage and playback of the...

www.use-ip.co.uk

 

[R_M]

Hi,
I believe that you can get analogue AccuSense cameras?
But, I may be wrong as we only deal with IP cameras.

For an Accusense IP camera we would recommend that you use a 7608-I NVR:

Hikvision DS-7608NI-I2-8P 8 Channel Network Video Recorder

The DS-7608NI-I2-8P is now End of Life. May we recommend the DS-7608NI-M2/8P as a direct replacement for this model. Key Features: - 8 Channel NVR - 8 POE Ports - H.265+H.265/H.264/H.264+/MPEG4 video formats - Up to 8 IP cameras can be connected - Supports live view, storage and playback of the...

www.use-ip.co.uk

Thanks for getting back to me Phil. I am really unsure myself, I had told prior to buying my current DVR that would be able to. I have been having a real tough time finding anyone who can supply a categorical list of available cameras. Something I am truly baffled by.

 

[JB1970]

@Phil @R_M AcuSense is available on HDTVi but it is in the DVR not the camera. Unfortunately the AcuSense DVRs don't have PoC so you'd need to not only replace the DVR but route 12V supplies to the cameras. If the existing installation was in RG59 that could be a lot of work for you. If it was in CAT5E with Baluns it's an easy change. Off topic - but the better 5MP HDTVi cameras are not available in PoC. The ultra low light (0.03 lux as opposed to 0.1 lux) models are 12V only.

 

[R_M]

Thanks for the replied. I have as suggested ordered an I series NVR along with a 4tb Hd.
I’m not sure if this warrants another post or I anyone can help within this. As you may be able to tell I am speccing and fitting all my own equipment. I am pretty IT savvy, I am not however a network guy, therefore learning as I go on that side.
So my current DVR is connect to the web via a D-link DWR921, and I view the vast majority of any footage I get remotely via Hik-Connect.
The videos working fine and the connection on 4G seems stable and of good speed.
I have noticed the ability to speed up footage is blanked out within the app. My homework suggests this is due to the DDNS not being configured.
I set about trying to get this configured and feel I’ve hit a wall. All the videos I have seen suggest it’s simply a case of filling in appropriate sections in config menu within Hik-Connect. However I keep getting a timeout. What I am reading tells me I need to open a port on the router, and also something about needing a static IP. I’ve been bashing my head on this on and off for last couple of weeks. Can anyone help, or suggest someone I can find simple instructions for the aforementioned? Thanks I’m advance.

 

[R_M]

Can anyone offer any guidance? I’m at the end of my tether with the IP Stuff. While it might be more reliable in terms of notifications, it’s a pig from a config standpoint.
DS-7608NI-I2/8P 12MP 8 Port PoE NVR running a Toshiba S300 4TB Surveillance 3.5" Hard Drive
Linked in is just ONE DS-2CD2386G2-ISU/SL
Issues are:
Cant playback footage via Hik-Connect, or directly from the NVR without the video skipping. The bits that can be played do to have audio either when played on app.
The 2 way audio doesn’t stay connected when in live view. The image however is near on perfect in live view, both on the NVR and Hik-Connect.
unable to set up area for smart event, the screen is just black when the camera image is.
Have spent best part of 2 hours in the loft messing around can’t find the problem.
I now wanna go back to the loft and do a video of me smashing the bloody thing up and posting it online as a product review.

 

[JB1970]

Can anyone offer any guidance? I’m at the end of my tether with the IP Stuff. While it might be more reliable in terms of notifications, it’s a pig from a config standpoint.
DS-7608NI-I2/8P 12MP 8 Port PoE NVR running a Toshiba S300 4TB Surveillance 3.5" Hard Drive
Linked in is just ONE DS-2CD2386G2-ISU/SL
Issues are:
Cant playback footage via Hik-Connect, or directly from the NVR without the video skipping. The bits that can be played do to have audio either when played on app.
The 2 way audio doesn’t stay connected when in live view. The image however is near on perfect in live view, both on the NVR and Hik-Connect.
unable to set up area for smart event, the screen is just black when the camera image is.
Have spent best part of 2 hours in the loft messing around can’t find the problem.
I now wanna go back to the loft and do a video of me smashing the bloody thing up and posting it online as a product review.

All most likely down to settings: First check the video parameters for the camera in the NVR menu.

• set to H265
• In the drop down set to Video & Audio. Do that for both main and sub stream
• Ensure that the main stream normal and main stream event both have the same settings with regard to frame rate and bit rate.
• In the storage menu bring up the schedule, click Advanced. In the pop up panel ensure record audio is checked
• In the same window as above change the pre alarm from 5 seconds to 0 seconds (this along with different settings in video parameters is the most likely cause if skipping)
• Let us know what video parameters you currently have set

 

[R_M]

All most likely down to settings: First check the video parameters for the camera in the NVR menu.

• set to H265
• In the drop down set to Video & Audio. Do that for both main and sub stream
• Ensure that the main stream normal and main stream event both have the same settings with regard to frame rate and bit rate.
• In the storage menu bring up the schedule, click Advanced. In the pop up panel ensure record audio is checked
• In the same window as above change the pre alarm from 5 seconds to 0 seconds (this along with different settings in video parameters is the most likely cause if skipping)
• Let us know what video parameters you currently have set

Thanks for your reply JB, sorry I haven’t been on here for a while.
I have been playing with the settings and it quickly became apparent the bitrate was far too high. I’ve knocked it down, but I’m still really unhappy with it. It used to work perfectly at night and that too has also stopped worked - close to ripping every piece Hik stuff out and go for another brand.

Issues currently are;
Audio; the camera mic seems to work in Hik-Connect on live stream, it appears not to be recording (saved a video from the NVR and no audio present). Audio isn’t playing when viewing back, or from an alert within Hik-Connect. The 2 way audio, again crap. The 2 way will work within the app for 5-10secs then drop, can only connect within Hik-Connect via the camera option, not the NVR.

The video quality for objects moving beyond 20mph becomes poor, and gets worse as passing cars get faster. The still images within the app are sometimes ok, other times rubbish. In addition, the quality of the video overall isn’t as I had expected for a 4K camera. Am I being unrealistic for this type of cameras? Do I need an ANPR to do this?

It used to work perfectly at night and that too has also stopped worked. I have tested this for both passing cars and me stood in front of it. I had to start shining a torch around for it to detect me. This literally occurred overnight with every passing car being spotted, and the following night and ever none at all at night. I hadn’t been near the NVR the day I noticed it wasn’t work at night. When I live view at night I can clearly be seen as too can passing cars.

I am so close to ripping every piece Hik stuff out and go for another brand. Any help you, or anyone can offer, before this stuff leaves this loft window first class, would be really appreciated. Please see images of core settings attached.

 

[JB1970]

(Quite) A few suggestions as there are a few things that are immediately apparent looking at your settings etc:

Audio; the camera mic seems to work in Hik-Connect on live stream, it appears not to be recording (saved a video from the NVR and no audio present).

Prove it is recording the main stream audio by using playback on the NVR directly. It may be that when playing back the clip that you've exported from the NVR that the audio is not being decoded by the player. I need to experiment with that myself, as I had similar issue some time ago with audio being missing on exported footage when played back.

can only connect within Hik-Connect via the camera option, not the NVR.

That is the correct operation. It is a bit annoying as there's additional clicks/touches required in the app to start the audio but it is correct. Audio via the NVR is just that - it's for using a microphone/speaker connected directly to the NVR audio input/output as opposed to from an audio capable IP camera.

The video quality for objects moving beyond 20mph becomes poor, and gets worse as passing cars get faster. The still images within the app are sometimes ok, other times rubbish. In addition, the quality of the video overall isn’t as I had expected for a 4K camera. Am I being unrealistic for this type of cameras? Do I need an ANPR to do this?

Your exposure time of 1/25 sec is too slow to freeze motion. It is a capped minimum, so it will only go as slow as 1/25 sec if needed but it certainly will use that in lower light. You can adjust that to 1/50 sec or 1/100 sec but then you will also affect the image in low light. Each time you halve the exposure time, you halve the amount of light reaching the sensor. ANPR shouldn't be necessary - why do you have a need to capture a passing cars numberplate.

Settings that you've shown:

Sub stream - use H264 for that stream and constant bit rate (less processing). I'd keep the frame rate down to 12 frames per second, medium for quality rather than highest and the bit rate down to 512 or 768 maximum. The sub stream is used for remote viewing only, most probably on your small phone screen rather than a 75" TV!. Keeping it at H264 with a lower frame rate and bit rate and set to constant, medium quality, you'll get a far better connection while on mobile data, as there's less to process. The settings you have are just going to bog down the mobile connection and the first thing that will drop is your audio.

Main stream - you have it set to constant bit rate, it should be on variable (opposite of sub stream). Variable will use the bit rate according to the amount of motion in the image. You'll see with constant that the picture quality will degrade when there's more activity in the image. Do you need full frame? If not, drop it down so that the available bit rate is used more effectively across less frames. 15 or even 12 frames per second should be plenty. Drop the quality from highest to higher. The bit rate will otherwise burst above the settings considerably in normal use.

Exposure - as mentioned further up. If you need to be able to get a reasonable still of someone at walking pace, this will need to be at 1/50 sec or even 1/100 sec

I am so close to ripping every piece Hik stuff out and go for another brand.

I honestly don't think you will get superior results with another brand and if you do it'll more likely be down to the settings rather than better kit.

 

[R_M]

Thanks JB, that’s really helpful
I will get up in the loft later and reconfigure as you’ve recommended.

In short I live in a rural area, back in Jan I was shot at by a bunch of Hare coursers, they’d come by my house prior to me to encountering them. Police weren’t interested due to lack of evidence, hence wanting the highest quality image/video I can get for when they’re back this season and pass by the house. Given this use case am I using the best camera? I wanted one with Acusense and the highest MP rating, also ideally black or grey in turret form.

 

[R_M]

(Quite) A few suggestions as there are a few things that are immediately apparent looking at your settings etc:


Prove it is recording the main stream audio by using playback on the NVR directly. It may be that when playing back the clip that you've exported from the NVR that the audio is not being decoded by the player. I need to experiment with that myself, as I had similar issue some time ago with audio being missing on exported footage when played back.


That is the correct operation. It is a bit annoying as there's additional clicks/touches required in the app to start the audio but it is correct. Audio via the NVR is just that - it's for using a microphone/speaker connected directly to the NVR audio input/output as opposed to from an audio capable IP camera.

Your exposure time of 1/25 sec is too slow to freeze motion. It is a capped minimum, so it will only go as slow as 1/25 sec if needed but it certainly will use that in lower light. You can adjust that to 1/50 sec or 1/100 sec but then you will also affect the image in low light. Each time you halve the exposure time, you halve the amount of light reaching the sensor. ANPR shouldn't be necessary - why do you have a need to capture a passing cars numberplate.

Settings that you've shown:

Sub stream - use H264 for that stream and constant bit rate (less processing). I'd keep the frame rate down to 12 frames per second, medium for quality rather than highest and the bit rate down to 512 or 768 maximum. The sub stream is used for remote viewing only, most probably on your small phone screen rather than a 75" TV!. Keeping it at H264 with a lower frame rate and bit rate and set to constant, medium quality, you'll get a far better connection while on mobile data, as there's less to process. The settings you have are just going to bog down the mobile connection and the first thing that will drop is your audio.

Main stream - you have it set to constant bit rate, it should be on variable (opposite of sub stream). Variable will use the bit rate according to the amount of motion in the image. You'll see with constant that the picture quality will degrade when there's more activity in the image. Do you need full frame? If not, drop it down so that the available bit rate is used more effectively across less frames. 15 or even 12 frames per second should be plenty. Drop the quality from highest to higher. The bit rate will otherwise burst above the settings considerably in normal use.

Exposure - as mentioned further up. If you need to be able to get a reasonable still of someone at walking pace, this will need to be at 1/50 sec or even 1/100 sec


I honestly don't think you will get superior results with another brand and if you do it'll more likely be down to the settings rather than better kit.

Hi JB, thanks for all your help. I have tried the above and still seem to be having issues. I see your point on frame rate. It’s a real pig, I want the low light performance, which as you said is significant reduced at 50. The camera still isn’t detecting cars or people at night.
I’m ripping this useless Darkfighter out and replacing with the newly released 4K POE Colorvu turret (for ref: DS-2CD2387G2-LU). I’ve been really impressed with low light video my POC Colourvu’s produce at 5mp in the exact same use case.
While I am waiting for the other one to land, would you suggest a full re-set on the camera due to night time motion detection ceasing for no apparent reason, with no changes made on the system? Also, is it possible to assign one profile for day recording, at one frame rate/image settings. And, apply a second one for when it’s in night mode with different settings? Given the processing issues you’ve mentioned is the NVR not man enough to give full bore high quality flawless 4K video, or am I being unrealistic in my expectations with that from a home CCTV system?

 

[JB1970]

Hi JB, thanks for all your help. I have tried the above and still seem to be having issues. I see your point on frame rate. It’s a real pig, I want the low light performance, which as you said is significant reduced at 50. The camera still isn’t detecting cars or people at night.
I’m ripping this useless Darkfighter out and replacing with the newly released 4K POE Colorvu turret (for ref: DS-2CD2387G2-LU). I’ve been really impressed with low light video my POC Colourvu’s produce at 5mp in the exact same use case.
While I am waiting for the other one to land, would you suggest a full re-set on the camera due to night time motion detection ceasing for no apparent reason, with no changes made on the system? Also, is it possible to assign one profile for day recording, at one frame rate/image settings. And, apply a second one for when it’s in night mode with different settings? Given the processing issues you’ve mentioned is the NVR not man enough to give full bore high quality flawless 4K video, or am I being unrealistic in my expectations with that from a home CCTV system?

Frame rate and shutter speed are separate things. Frame rate is the number of individual images per second that the camera produces. That won't affect the exposure or performance in low light but will hugely impact the bit rate required and storage. The bit rate is set in kilobits per second, and frame rate is frames per second so the bit rate is divided across the number of frames (that's a bit of a simplistic explanation as it doesn't take into account I frame interval among other things). Exposure time is similar to shutter speed on a camera and is how the long the image sensor is exposed to the light (it's electronic as there's no mechanical shutter but many still refer to it as shutter speed - myself included) It's the exposure time that will affect the ability to freeze motion.

I wouldn't say the camera is useless in any way - it's a decent camera, I have them. I don't think the replacement you mention exists - the ColorVu turrets are only available in 4 megapixel (DS-2CD2347G2) There's a new model coming out which is the (c) revision but it's still only 4 megapixel. Unless you've plenty of light the ColorVu may be worse as by default they ship with a shutter speed of 1/12 second. Increasing it will underexpose the image if there's insufficient light.

I'm not sure why the motion would stop working. The only bug I'm aware of is that the coverage area drawn can reset to a rectangle if the camera or NVR is rebooted. You could try a reset or just go over the configuration again. Ensure you program it from the NVR - don't bypass the NVR and program it straight from the cameras own webpage as it's easy to muck it up that way and the settings displayed in the NVR may show incorrectly.

You can set different image settings for day and night but not frame rate. It's not without issue as you can't schedule based on the cameras day and night sensor - it's done by time and so it may not be ideal due to the change in sunrise/sunset throughout the year.

"Full bore high quality flawless 4K video" is unrealistic with most systems, unless you have very deep pockets. Sony do a camera that you'd probably be happy with it but I believe it's over £5K.

 

[R_M]

Frame rate and shutter speed are separate things. Frame rate is the number of individual images per second that the camera produces. That won't affect the exposure or performance in low light but will hugely impact the bit rate required and storage. The bit rate is set in kilobits per second, and frame rate is frames per second so the bit rate is divided across the number of frames (that's a bit of a simplistic explanation as it doesn't take into account I frame interval among other things). Exposure time is similar to shutter speed on a camera and is how the long the image sensor is exposed to the light (it's electronic as there's no mechanical shutter but many still refer to it as shutter speed - myself included) It's the exposure time that will affect the ability to freeze motion.

I wouldn't say the camera is useless in any way - it's a decent camera, I have them. I don't think the replacement you mention exists - the ColorVu turrets are only available in 4 megapixel (DS-2CD2347G2) There's a new model coming out which is the (c) revision but it's still only 4 megapixel. Unless you've plenty of light the ColorVu may be worse as by default they ship with a shutter speed of 1/12 second. Increasing it will underexpose the image if there's insufficient light.

I'm not sure why the motion would stop working. The only bug I'm aware of is that the coverage area drawn can reset to a rectangle if the camera or NVR is rebooted. You could try a reset or just go over the configuration again. Ensure you program it from the NVR - don't bypass the NVR and program it straight from the cameras own webpage as it's easy to muck it up that way and the settings displayed in the NVR may show incorrectly.

You can set different image settings for day and night but not frame rate. It's not without issue as you can't schedule based on the cameras day and night sensor - it's done by time and so it may not be ideal due to the change in sunrise/sunset throughout the year.

"Full bore high quality flawless 4K video" is unrealistic with most systems, unless you have very deep pockets. Sony do a camera that you'd probably be happy with it but I believe it's over £5K.

So today I had more travellers passing by, they had been all over land at a neighbours again.
I've spent best part of an hour trying to pull the footage from the DVR, to a stick. It hasn’t worked. How on earth guys who fit this stuff for living put up with constant problems with this stuff I don’t know. There’s no consistency, Wednesday I pulled footage from the same NVR to the same memory stick and got it playing on the same laptop. This evening doing exactly the same I can’t!
I’m getting to the point where I’m gonna pay someone to come in and sanity check the settings, before I start going hammer and tong at Hik for selling stuff with gapping errors, not being able to quickly pull down footage on to a USB is fundamental for a CCTV system.
The 8mp Turret Colorvu is one I’ve been chasing for months, it only came on Wednesday. Here’s the link: DS-2CD2387G2-L(U)

Since the changes were applied previously mentioned I am no longer able to record videos on Hik-Connect to negate the issues with USB being cack, and ideas?
Cheers

 

[JB1970]

How on earth guys who fit this stuff for living put up with constant problems with this stuff I don’t know. There’s no consistency, Wednesday I pulled footage from the same NVR to the same memory stick and got it playing on the same laptop. This evening doing exactly the same I can’t!

We don't! I've not had problems exporting to USB before. I'd usually export to USB for short clips only. I find it easier to to just use a web browser to connect with and record a clip directly from playback, or export a larger chunk directly to PC/Mac. From your image you're maybe trying to play back the file with an application that doesn't have the required Codec to playback the Hikvision file. It will work with Hikvisions own VS Player or VLC. You can export the player with the video clip to USB.

I’m getting to the point where I’m gonna pay someone to come in and sanity check the settings, before I start going hammer and tong at Hik for selling stuff with gapping errors

At this point getting a professional to check everything will be your best bet. At the end of the day it's a professional system intended for installation and setup by a trained installer. Hikvision do not provide technical support to end users for that reason and approved Hikvision suppliers do not sell equipment to the public unless they can directly support them - I believe that's a Hikvision requirement.

The 8mp Turret Colorvu is one I’ve been chasing for months, it only came on Wednesday.

Interesting, I stand corrected! I wonder if we'll get that 8MP version in the UK as some models are only released to certain markets.

 

[R_M]

Hi JB, so I walked away and left it. I have a very short fuse and things get broken very quickly when they’re overly complex. I have come back to it this evening in the hope of getting it to work, I work in IT, this should be easy - it’s not!!!
So I’ve done customisation on the NVR, both on device and via web browser. Also on the camera via a web browser previously. Along with using IVMS4200(what a shit piece of software - feels a step marginally above MS Dos!!).
Done the same this evening as I’ve done before, plug the laptop in the lead from the 4G router, and type in the NVR IP address, after a delay I get an error message. I’ve not made any changes to my default IP. Can’t get the log in page for either the camera or NVR to load.
I then decide to give my CPU computer fan some love and load IVMS.
I’ve never liked using it, find it slow, clunky and temperamental, even when following a YouTube video click for click!! I’ve noticed previously shed loads of crap listed within on devices page, in short the NVR and DVR are listed multiple times, with only 2 showing as online. When serial numbers are checks it confirms the 15 listed as being offline are duplicates. I’ve tried to remove as a batch, and one by one and can’t! I can’t edit as it says this already exists. (What sort of pony software allows duplicates to be added in such abundance).
Any ideas how I can sort this? Having some many duplicates can’t be right? In addition I keep getting asked for a key in IVMS, again haphazard, I’ve viewed videos remotely from my office before over IVMS.
While I appreciate this stuff is meant to be pro fit, I’m not some Dorris who doesn’t have have clue about tech and have done all sorts from customising CRM systems to programming CNC cutting machines. This complex for the sake of being complex from Hik. The UI for example is horrendous.

The primary reason I fitted, still adding to the system myself, is I spoke to multiple CCTV companies, they all said different things and when I asked real technical questions such as I’ve asked here they could always answer them. I wasn’t going to take a gamble diving in bulls deep with a 2k install when I wasn’t sure if I needed IP of Analogue and wasn’t 100% sure on the companies I had spoken to.
I’ve done plenty of fishing and fixing cables before, so that parts would be easy for me.
I opted initially for 2POC colourvu, having been told by several experts you have all the same features as a normal system, without having to run power separately, I have always considered balons, to be crude, and when I thought I could do it all up on clean Coax I was sold!
£500 in it became apparent the Analogue POC is properly poop if you want reliable notifications and don’t want false alarms at night from moths.
So I found myself looking at IP, the setup on the POC have been pretty easy in fairness, and in the words of Clarkson I had a ‘how hard can it be moment and proceeded buy an NVR and cam. Also in classic Clarkson style have failed epically it seems.
I’ve seen from your posts that you do instals, would you be open to doing a remote config session on mine? Sure an arrangement on payment could be made ahead of any call too.

 

[R_M]

I have now ordered a Hik LPR camera (DS-2CD7A26G0/P-IZS-8-32MM). In my usual fashion I’ve order and asking questions later.

I am hoping to run it POE, is that possible for an I series NVR, or will it need dedicated a power supply?

Also, will it show in Hik connect? Or do I need to add it separately?
Finally I am not keen on the cam casing colour and want to change it, I also want to keep the warranty. Has anyone ever wrapped (vehicle wrap) a camera before, if so did it turn out well?

 

[JB1970]

I have now ordered a Hik LPR camera (DS-2CD7A26G0/P-IZS-8-32MM). In my usual fashion I’ve order and asking questions later.

I am hoping to run it POE, is that possible for an I series NVR, or will it need dedicated a power supply?

Also, will it show in Hik connect? Or do I need to add it separately?
Finally I am not keen on the cam casing colour and want to change it, I also want to keep the warranty. Has anyone ever wrapped (vehicle wrap) a camera before, if so did it turn out well?

Yes no issues running it PoE from the NVR.

If the NVR is connected to Hik Connect, once you've added the camera to the NVR it'll also be available - no need to add it separately. If it doesn't show straight away just reboot the NVR, then once back up log out and back in to Hik Connect on your device.

 

[R_M]

Yes no issues running it PoE from the NVR.

If the NVR is connected to Hik Connect, once you've added the camera to the NVR it'll also be available - no need to add it separately. If it doesn't show straight away just reboot the NVR, then once back up log out and back in to Hik Connect on your device.

Perfect. Thanks JB.

 

[R_M]

I have decided where I want to place the ANPR, this meets all the requirements laid out by Hik for positioning. In short it’s going to be on a 50mm Ali pole, which will be direct fixed on a stand off aerial clamp to the walls of the shed. The data is going to be attached to a separate 50mm Ali pole at the front of the shed - my fear was any cable sway in the wind would affect the camera if on same pole.
In terms of fixing and tensioning the cable I’m pretty cool with. A point which has popped in to my mind is earthing.
The pole carrying the data will be at least 6 meters in the air, therefore must be a lightning strike risk. My thoughts are running outdoor grade cat5 from the soffit of the house to the Ali pole, down the pole and in to the shed. Would it be a good idea to have some kind of surge protection before the NVR and camera? I have seen Ubiquiti do an “eth-sp-g2” surge protector. Would using these be appropriate? If so, it suggests these should be earthed. In the shed I have no power, and therefore no earthing. Do I need to bang an earth rod in near the shed for this, and to earth the tall Ali pole?

 

[R_M]

So an update. Down to just one POC camera now, all the others have been replaced for 4K IP. I’ve finally got my hands on the 4K colourvu turrets, the image is amazing! The night view over fields in front of my house through the cameras is clear as day, at well over 200m. The attached image is just low moonlight at midnight last night on a slight zoom

Following 2hours with a paid pro looking at the system remotely I’ve had some real progress made in terms of sorting out the audio, image quality and playback (most of the time). The UI on the web browser looks great. I have the button enabled to speed up playback in HikConnect, which I didn’t have before. A lot to be happy about, and money well spent.

However, when I got my first acusense cam 6months ago, it worked perfectly. Only triggered notifications when a car, or person came in to anywhere with the cams view. I started screwing about with image setting and it never worked right thereafter.

I asked the guy yesterday to config it the way it was from new, which he did. Unfortunately it still doesn’t work properly. Sends out notifications at random times, no consistency now. Missed multiple cars and people passing it all day, but got a limited number. All I want the thing to do, is notify me everytime a car, or person comes past it 24/7, like it did when new.

In addition, ahead of his remote log in, I fitted 3 additional 4K IPs. One on the front, I asked for an area to be marked and set for people entering. This seems to work fairly well so far.
I’ve 2 more cams covering side and rear, wanted them detecting people only anywhere in shot, and sod all from either in terms of notifications. These haven’t had me mess about with them either, fitted and let the guy config them.

Having taking the worthwhile advise and getting a pro to look at it, I’m now somewhat at a loss as to where I should go next. It was noted the EE 4G network on the DLink DWR921 router could be causing some issues. There were conflicts in a couple of the boxes in the network section on the NVR

I don’t wanna keep chucking money at trying to set the Hik stuff, if this router or network isn’t right.

The fact there were port conflicts it would stand to reason that it would cause some issues. But to the same degree my POC system(being phased out for IP), which sits on the same router literally sends them out for fun. Surely I’d have same issues with that if router was that wack?

I have crap wired internet, and EE are the only 4g network who can offer stable coverage so have little choice for remote viewing. Any ideas where I go from here